Northwest Hiking Trails

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Squire Creek Pass (Trail 654)


Trip report by: Brett Miller

"I would probably recommend this trip to a friend."

On an August Sunday, I left my house in Everett, WA around 8:30am. It was foggy, but I knew the forecast called for clear skies and hot weather that day, so I left on schedule. By the time I arrived in Darrington, the clouds had burned off and I was greeted with the magnificent sight of Whitehorse Mountain.

Photo: View of the eastern cliffs of Three Fingers. Vertical drop from the left-most peak (or "finger") to the valley below is about 2000 feet. A fire lookout is perched atop the left-most "finger". (Brett Miller photo, (C) 2000).

Once in Darrington, I turned right on Madison, then right on Squire Creek Road (#2040), then pretty much drove straight on the road for 6.7 miles until the road ends at the trailhead. Trail passes are required to park at the trailhead, which is at 1800 feet elevation. After applying sunscreen and insect repellent, I mount my pack, grabbed my hiking pole and started up the trail at 10:16am.

The 1.5 miles of the trail is a pleasant, rolling hike through old-growth forest, crossing a few streambeds along the way. Take your time and enjoy this part... things get a little more hot and strenuous after this section. After that, you go up your first series of switchbacks, which brings you to a boulder field. This is where you are treated to magnificent views of the cliffs of Three Fingers and Whitehorse Mountain. I've been to Yosemite and marveled at El Capitan, but Three Fingers is awe-inspiring in its own right. (If you get to this point during the morning, the morning sun splashes on the cliff face, revealing every nook and cranny.)

Now that you're at the boulder field, hydrate. This is where the trail gets hot. You hike up a rocky trail up a gentle grade for the next 1.5 miles or so. The trail is difficult to follow here, but look out for small piles of rocks (kind of like those in "The Blair Witch Project") that act as trail markers.

Okay, you've made it through the hot, bare section, so treat yourself to some more water and maybe a light energy snack. The next section is where you'll earn those calories. For approximately the next 3/4 mile, you'll switchback up through some rough, root-covered, muddy, rocky trail that will definitely slow you down. (I'd recommend good technical hiking boots and trekking/hiking pole(s) for this section, but that's up to you.) Take your time in this section... if you're going to fall/twist an ankle anywhere on this trail, it will probably happen in this section.

Once you get out of the switchbacks, the forest opens up a little as you approach the pass. Roots and mud still dominate the muddy trail at this point, so your feet and ankles don't get much of a break yet. Press on a bit further (for 15 minutes or so) and you'll arrive at the pass.

Once you're at the pass, drop your pack, whip out your camera and start taking pictures. To the West, Three Fingers, Bear Mountain, Whitehorse Mountain and Mount Bullon await. To the North, Jumbo Mountain. Sloan Peak sits off in the distance to the Northeast, with Helena Ridge (and a little of Mount Pugh) sitting to the east. If you want views of Glacier Peak, I think you'll have to scramble up the ridge at the South end of the pass. (I was tired and didn't feel like climbing anymore, so I didn't climb the South ridge.)

After some picture taking, lunch, hydration and filling my canteens from snowmelt (don't forget your Potable Aqua!), I started down. The old saying, "It's easier going up than down," is very true with this trail. That steep section of roots, mud and switchbacks you came up right before the pass? Well, it's waiting there for you to trip, slip and slide your way down. If you take your time, it isn't difficult or dangerous. However, if you get in a rush, you just might get Snohomish County Search and Rescue to carry you the rest of the way down. I fell three times when roots gave way under my feet, but a hiking pole (and knowing how to fall) saved me from any injury.

Anyway, the rest of the hike down was very hot, as the direct sunshine was now shining on the eastern wall of the valley where the trail runs. I sweated buckets going down and even became a little dehydrated towards the end. There is water at a few places on the lower part of the trail, but you should treat this trail as a "dry trail" and bring lots of your own water. I arrived back at my truck at 6:26pm.

Final Impression: The views were amazing, but the trail was almost as bad as the views were good. If you like solitude and a strenuous hike that pays off with some incredible views, then you would probably like this trail very much. If you're more of a Mt. Pilchuck or Sauk Mountain kind of hiker, you should avoid this trail and pick something a little easier. If you're not in very good shape, avoid this trail because it will kick your butt and maybe even injure you severely. This trail is a 10-mile round-trip and gains 2300 feet in elevation. What makes this trail difficult is: 1) the poor trail conditions in places; and 2) the fact that most of the elevation gain occurs in about 2 miles of switchbacks.

Good luck!

Note: This is backcountry wilderness travel. You are responsible for informing yourself of the hazards and taking the necessary precautions.

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