Glacier Peak Wilderness
Trip report by: Miles Mudwaffle and Gorp the trail dog
"I would definitely recommend this trip to a friend."
This is a beautiful area, but I have some important info for people planning to backpack in: how to find a good campsite. Spider Meadow is a popular place, and rightfully so. You won’t find solitude, but you’ll find some of the most scenic camping in the Cascades. And you’ll meet nice people with something in common -- they hiked in to enjoy the spectacular scenery, just like you.
Campsites at the bottom (beginning) of the meadow are easy to reach. The 18 or so tent sites are set in clusters close together, great for large parties. If you just have one backpacking tent, you can probably squeeze in or find a spot behind a boulder or tree. If there aren’t any horse parties camped to the left of the creek, cross over and look around for an open site.
Walk the main trail a mile to the top (end) of the meadow, cross Phelps Creek and go to the signed "Y" junction. On your right and left are three excellent campsites. Keep right for three more private ones. These are all near the creek and well sheltered.
The hike up to the base of Spider Glacier is worth the workout (a mile of steep south-facing switchbacks gains 1100 feet). We’ve all read about the "premium campsite" on Larch Knob. Well, there are actually at least 12 campsites up there. The best sites aren’t obvious. There aren’t any bad ones.
When you finish climbing the switchbacks, at the 6200 foot level, watch for the "toilet" sign pointing right. The promontory to your left has four campsites. The first one is the largest and could be shared to create a fifth site. If you’re using a bivy, you can easily slip into a flat spot here, even if it’s full.
Up the "toilet" trail, a ways past the privy, are two lofty sites with excellent views.
On the main trail, as you round the corner and get your first view of the glacier, there is a big tent site to your left, near the top of the waterfall.
Cross the creek and go up on the knob. Every site on this knob has nice views of the glacier and meadow. The heather saddle has room for a half dozen tents. Smile, offer cookies, elbow in, and get settled. Or continue up for one more site.
I know all this makes it sound like a zoo. On a Saturday night in the lower meadow, with kids, dogs and horses, it could be, but people are generally well behaved. Don’t worry about camping too close to others, because most visitors are out all day hiking around the meadow or up to the gap.
As for Larch Knob, the effort barrier keeps the competition down. On a weekend, plenty of folks still haul their packs up there. To get the best sites, get an early start, or avoid weekends.
When choosing a site, consider that the wind switches at sunset and flows down the valley. It crosses a mile-long glacier en route, so it’s a cold wind.
Should you go up the glacier? Certainly. Keep an eye on the crevasses so you don"t end up as a popsicle. At the gap, you can see Lyman Lake in the distance. Follow a short trail to the right, staying high, for a view back to the Lyman Glacier, which is much more glacier-looking than Spider.
Photos: Top two are Spider Meadow. Third is Seven Fingered Jack and Mt. Maude at sunset from Larch Knob. Bottom is Lyman Glacier (upper and lower portions) from Spider Gap.
Note: This is backcountry wilderness travel. You are responsible for informing yourself of the hazards and taking the necessary precautions.