Trip report by: Jeffrey Cooper
What do you look for when you go on a hike? Stunning views? Snow capped mountains? Open meadows? Towering cliffs? Clear stream waterfalls? Glaciers? This trip has it all!
From 3500 feet, you set off on a trail that is straight and constantly on an easy grade, through a wonderful forest. It will be like this for about 5 miles, so get used to it. After you enter the wilderness area and come to Leroy Creek, don't miss the path hiding just on the other side of the creek to the right. Set your pack down, take a break, and walk up 100 yards to a spectacular waterfall!
Refreshed, set off again for the elusive meadow. You'll start to catch glimpses of Red Mountain ahead, and the adrenaline will help you with the slightly steeper grade. Suddenly, at 5.5 miles, the meadow jumps into your lap, and you have to stop and look. It's reminiscent of the Swiss Alps: towering rock walls on either side, with a green lush expanse in front of you.
Now, choose your camp site from the many available. All stock must camp here at the South end of the meadow. But, move on if you plan to continue up to the gap. It's another mile to the other side of the meadow, and the last bit is a little steep. There are a couple of sites at the far end on the meadow. Continue up into the forest and see about five more sites. The one alone at the fork to Phelps Basin is my favorite. We camped here and it was great: protected from wind (which is common here), convenient to stream and climbing, and private.
DON'T MISS PHELPS BASIN!!!! We told everyone who walked by to have a look, and only a few did. But those who did came back thanking us profusely. I won't tell you any more...let the surprise itch at you...
If you're in good shape, you can continue on up the trail to the Knob, where there are about 4 camp sites (usually full on weekends, get here early). Be prepared for wind and cold if the weather isn't perfect. But, the view is stunning.
First, you must gain 1000' in half a mile, but from here you can see out over the meadow and valley, with a wonderful stream from the base of Spider Glacier cascading by and out over a long fall.
From the Knob, two trails lead to the Gap. One goes straight up the Glacier. The other scrambles up steep rock...I mean steap. I recommend going up via the Glacier.
Of course, you should take an ice axe for safety, but I didn't and was fine. Make sure your shoes will do the snow climb, though. It's steep and climbs for 3/4 of a mile, gaining 1000' in elevation. Reach the top, and you've reached the Gap. This is your summit, at 7100'. Look out the other side onto the much larger Lyman Glacier, down into the valley 2000' below with Lyman Lake. On the horizon are Sitting Bull Mountain, Cloudy Peak, and Bonanza Peak. On our trip up, the clouds kept us from seeing the peaks, but the view was stunning...absolutely stunning. Walk around, enjoy the view, and bring your windbreaker and warm clothes.
We had snow and sun at the same time. Continue on from here to Holden or Cloudy Pass, but don't look back. It's quite a hike to return if that's what you're thinking. Once you've absorbed as much of this beauty as you can, head back down by staying to the left or East of Spider Glacier and look for the cairns. Follow them on the trail down, if you're not too afraid of heights.
Going down, this is not a difficult path, and the views are fantastic, down into Phelps Basin. Join up with the main trail at the Knob. On your way down, check out the other camp sites, because you KNOW you will be coming back.
10.4 mile round trip to the meadow. 16.4 mile round trip to Spider Gap. 1100' gain to the meadow. 3600' gain to the gap. Use Green Tails Map No. 113 - Holden. Trail starts 30 miles north of Lake Wenatchee turn off. Rating: 8, out of 10.
Note: This is backcountry wilderness travel. Any trail can become very dangerous in winter conditions. You are responsible for informing yourself of the hazards and taking the necessary precautions. Please read Terms of Use.