"I would probably recommend this trip to a friend."
Traveling the rugged Naches Trail, following the route of the pioneer wagons in the mid-1800s, gave me an idea of the challenges faced by these determined settlers. The trail crosses Naches Pass, over the same mountain range that we now cross via Chinook Pass on Highway 410. From Naches Pass, the rest of the way was all downhill for the pioneers hoping to settle on Puget Sound. It must have been an exciting moment.
As a road, it definitely shows little signs of having been deliberately constructed. Instead, it follows ridgelines and meanders through trees. It is sometimes no more than a deep, wide rut in the forest, worn down by hooves and wheels. The side walls of the roadway are four to five feet high in places, and lined with downed trees, as it would have been 150 years ago.
This trail, known as Roads 1911, 684 and 1175, has been largely left alone by surrounding heavy logging operations. It is frequented by jeeps and motorcycles. If you choose to drive it, prepare to test your driving skill and your vehicle. You should have 4wd with ground clearance, and a winch is advisable.
Walking or mountain-biking this trail is about as fast as driving it, and much easier on your vehicle.
It seems fitting to travel the road from east to west. An eight-mile car shuttle will enable you to hike or bike this trail one way. In addition, there are major new forest roads intersecting the trail in two places, dividing it into three sections. Each of these intersecting roads joins Forest Road 19. If you're looking for a short loop, I recommend the third and highest section at the west end.
Section 1
The trail crosses some boggy areas in its first mile, with the help of rickety-looking puncheon structures resembling big boardwalks. They are just wide enough for a small vehicle, make several sharp turns, and have no side rails. At one mile, enter clearcuts and cross three small logging roads that are not on the map.
At 1.6 miles, the trail levels off on top of a ridge, with wildflowers and a cool breeze. Views open to the north, where much of the forest has been cleared and replanted. From here, the trail reenters second-growth forest and meanders along the south side of the ridge. At 2 miles, the ridge begins to broaden into a plateau, and short puncheon crossings traverse small boggy places.
Section 2
At somewhere around 3 miles (I wasn't watching the odometer here), the trail intersects with Forest Road 784, Blowout Creek. Here begins section 2, which is more attractive than section 1. This section travels in forest, except for clearcuts and a medium-sized, grassy meadow. Both are in the last quarter mile before intersecting with Forest Road 1914 at 5.3 miles.
Section 3
This section is the most pleasant of all, because it is completely in forest, with numerous meadows, and crosses the summit of Naches Pass.
A large meadow at 5.5 miles has a small pond in its center, with a few water lilies. I saw many signs of deer and elk, but the animals themselves were nowhere to be seen at mid-day. This meadow has clearcuts right up to its edges, not very attractive.
The trail reenters the forest at 5.6 miles, and crosses a meadow that is several times as large as the previous one, very green and pretty. It is lined with forest, not a clearcut in sight, and is at least a mile across in each direction. There are a couple of small places by the road that would make adequate campsites, and probably more in the woods.
At 5.7 miles is the summit of Naches Pass, elevation 5000'. A sign commemorates the hard work and determination of settlers traveling west on this trail. From here, the trail descends gradually through ever-thicker vegetation. It crosses the Pacific Crest Trail at about six miles, and there is a large camping area near the trail junction.
The trail crosses a perpetually muddy bog at 6.5 miles, and intersects with Forest Road 1914 again at 6.8 miles. I believe this is the end of what remains of the original Naches Trail, though the trail continues as Trail 1175 for a few more miles.
Beyond the Naches Trail
The next mile crosses more meadows and intersects with another Forest Road. Continuing from there, the trail ventures out along a knife ridge, through clearcuts, probably becoming single-track at some point, and drops all the way down to the Greenwater River. At 8.0 miles, there is a road that angles down to the left, joining Forest Road 70, which leads back to Highway 410 on the west side of Chinook Pass. This is where I left the trail.
Getting there: Drive Highway 410 east from Chinook Pass or west from Yakima. Turn north on Forest Road 19 and drive 11.2 miles. Turn right on Forest Road 1913. Watch for the Naches Trail, on your left. If you're walking or biking, park 100 yards beyond the turnoff at a small camping area. If you're driving the Naches Trail, prepare for a bumpy ride!
Note: This is backcountry wilderness travel. You are responsible for informing yourself of the hazards and taking the necessary precautions.
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