Trip report by Bill DeYoung
I didn't plan to go to Lava Canyon on this trip. The YMCA Mt Rainier team had planned a training climb of Mt St Helens for June 6, but our team leader--a great trainer and fine mountaineer, but not used to planning for 20 people--hadn't made reservations back in February, so we ended up with 14 permits for 19 people. I was late getting to Climbers Bivouac and I didn't know I had no permit, so I started up anyway. Met a ranger at timberline and after a short talk he let me go after my party to get my permit. I was pretty sure I could see them at the lower end of Monitor Ridge. Before I could overtake them, I found myself gaining rapidly on a second ranger just at the bottom of the long chute that parallels Monitor Ridge to the snowfield at 7,000. She asked me about my permit and I gave her my story and she said, "They don't have it." And told me the YMCA group had had to send people home.
Photo: Climbing the Prow offers a great view up Lava Canyon.
She actually gave me permission to go after them and make sure, but as I agree in principle with limiting the number of people crawling all over the mountain, I went back down. Just at the foot of the ridge I saw a ptarmigan crossing the snow to the rocks about 10' away. She paused long enough for a quick picture before heading on into the foot of the ridge. (picture) Made the mini-climb worthwhile. I had made it from the trailhead (3,800') to just below Monitor Rock (5,400') in 55 minutes. It took me about that long to get down, even glissading, because the bulk of the distance was trail through the woods.
The trail is still mostly slushy snow with muddy patches. There were trilliums blooming in one of the bare patches. The ridge route had a lot less snow than 3 weeks ago and rocks were showing through in places. Reports from those that went up were that two people got bumped and bruised glissading on the way down.
I actually had an ulterior motive that made getting turned back easier. I wanted to see Lava Canyon. From Climbers Bivouac I continued on FR 83 through the Lahar Viewpoint. Great view of the volcano--which was clouded over at the top, no crater shots or views to the north from the summit.
Not too many cars at the trailhead for a sunny Saturday. Lava Canyon is a spectacular hike along the Muddy River, which once ran through a heavily forested valley which was filled with lava from an eruption 1900 yrs ago. It has been scoured by floods and refilled at least once before 1980 when all that wasn't bedrock or lava was washed out onto the plain formed when the tail end of the lahar met the wash down Smith Creek from the Windy Ridge area.
It's a "backward" hike, since the trail descends rapidly for 1200' or so down into the canyon along a steep path cut into the cliffs before it levels out and follows the river through dense stands of young alders and finally out onto the flat, gravelly plain covered with 4'-5' doug firs all bright yellow green in their late spring new growth. The upper area is very developed and paved paths make it barrier free, so anyone can get a sense of the place before the trail turns rugged and narrow and drops off into the canyon. It is quite spectacular with chains of waterfalls, steep cliffs and outcroppings of lava rising up out of the middle of the canyon. One of these, The Prow, can be climbed for a great view up the canyon and three waterfalls. (picture)
A mile after it flattens out, you reach the confluence of the Muddy River and Smith Creek which flows south from Windy Ridge. Here a bridge built before the '80 eruption (or so I was told) reaches out from the opposite bank. The north end looks like the I-90 "freeway to nowhere" in the 60's and 70's before they connected it to I-5--just hanging there 50' away from the north shore and even if it reached, it would be 5' above the bank. It stands 20' above the creek bed anchored by six 8" I-beams embedded into 2' thick concrete pads. From the underside of the concrete pads you can tell that they were poured in place on the ground, giving an idea of the volume of material washed away. (picture)
A driving trail gives access to the S side of the river and the connected end of the bridge. I met a guy and a couple who had driven down, crossed over and were headed up Smith Creek. The couple each packed a tall Coors Lite and the guy had a pistol--"bear and cougar in this area." If one were into a long hike and could arrange the transport, you could start at Lava Canyon, hike north up along Smith Creek through the east edge of the blast zone to Windy Ridge--15 miles or so. "Wouldn't do it without a gun, though--bear and cougar." I saw plenty of scat, but no tracks, and nothing looked recent.
The hike back was pleasant and not too much of a strain. The climb out is definitely steep, but lasts only about a mile. Easy day hike and definitely worth it if you are interested in the geology of the volcano.
Getting there: Lava Canyon trailhead is at the end of FR 83 and would be about 4hrs drive from Seattle by either side of the mountain.
Note: This is backcountry wilderness travel. Any trail can become very dangerous in winter conditions. You are responsible for informing yourself of the hazards and taking the necessary precautions. Please read Terms of Use.