"I would definitely recommend this trip to a friend."
Dry winters create some rare skiing opportunities. A prime example in 2000-2001 was along the Mountain Loop Highway, which was kept open to Barlow Pass, many miles east of its usual closure point. The ghost town of Monte Cristo, normally beyond the stamina of most skiers, was within easy reach.
From Barlow Pass, the closed road to the Monte Cristo townsite is a relatively level ski trail. The river valley is beautiful in winter, with snow capping the rocks in the river, as well as clinging to the steep cliffs up above. The slopes are wooded near the valley floor, greatly reducing the avalanche danger. The character and history of the town’s old buildings are usually seen in winter only by snowmobilers.
The road follows the river all the way into the mining town of Monte Cristo. In less than four miles is a sign welcoming you to Monte Cristo. Crossing the footbridge into town, you’ll pass a rusted metal sign advertising the Monte Cristo Lodge, once offering meals, rooms and cards to travelers on the Mountain Loop Highway.
Skiing across an open area toward the remaining buildings, you’ll come to the town’s 10,000-watt hydro power plant, still generating "vicious homemade electricity." One of the three hand-lettered signs on the powerhouse identifies its owner, the Monte Cristo PEU, as "a private monopoly, dedicated to sending no bills, dunning letters, or meter readers."
Beyond the powerhouse are several boarded-up houses. Another footbridge crosses the creek and climbs the hill into what was once the heart of a thriving town. An interpretive sign has maps of the original town and a few old photos.
Getting there: Drive the Mountain Loop Highway (Highway 530) east to Barlow Pass, or to the end of plowing. Park in the turnaround near the gate. This is a summer trailhead, so display your Northwest Forest Pass. Ski past the gate on the closed road. Share this road with snowmobiles, snowshoers and snow hikers. Dogs welcome.
The shade of this deep canyon can leave the lightly-traveled Mountain Loop Highway dangerously icy. We pulled one motorist from the snowbank, who had deposited his car there the previous afternoon and had waited all night for help to come along.
Note: This is backcountry wilderness travel. You are responsible for informing yourself of the hazards and taking the necessary precautions.
-->