"I would definitely recommend this trip to a friend."
The Chelan Summit Trail, Lake Chelan-Sawtooth Wilderness, WA
Aug 31-Sept 5, 1997
Ken, Keith, and Shadow Konigsmark
As late August rolled around, the excitement began to build once again as Ken and Keith Konigsmark, along with Shadow the Hiking Dog, prepared for yet another wilderness backpacking adventure. Previous trips, all reported in past year's issues of Signpost, have taken us into Alpine Lakes, Glacier Peak, Henry M. Jackson, Pasayten, Goat Rocks, and William O. Douglas Wilderness Areas, and Olympic National Park. This year, the target for our Aug. 31- Sept.5 hike was the Lake Chelan-Sawtooth Wilderness and the Chelan Summit Trail, paralleling the Sawtooth Mountains ridgeline on the eastern side of Lake Chelan. We had heard good things about this area: open, high-meadow views, the highest elevation trail route in the state, many 8,000' or higher peaks, beautiful lakes, larch trees, too many sidetrips to do, and more.
Our six day trip would take us from the southern end of the Sawtooth range, starting at the Foggy Dew Ridge trailhead (Trail # 438) rather than the typical hiker starting point at Summer Blossom, then west to the Chelan Summit trail (#1259), then north to Lake Juanita where we would travel east down the War Creek Trail (#408) to complete a 43 mile route to our prepositioned car. With sidetrips, we expected to cover 50 miles or more in total. (Refer to Green Trails maps #115 (Prince Creek, #83 (Buttermilk Butte), and # 82 (Stehekin)).
We started on Sunday, Aug 31st, with a 3.5 hour drive in two cars to the Methow valley. We stopped for lunch at a bar in Twisp where the locals thought we were crazy to be voluntarily submitting ourselves to a 50-mile backpack trip…for fun! After the burger and fries, we drove the Twisp River Road to the car drop-off point at the War Creek trailhead. We then headed south for our start point, the Foggy Dew Ridge trailhead, on FS Roads 43 and 4340, both in good condition, to FS Road 200 (Foggy Dew Creek road), which, as an alternative, is also accessible via Gold Creek road off of Highway 153.
Having decided we didn't want to compete with roaring motorcycles on the Foggy Dew Creek trail, we had opted to instead take the "hiker only" ridge trail, even though it was shown as "unmaintained," and even though the map distance of 4.5 miles was clearly inaccurate. We probably should have had a clue as to what was in store when we couldn't even find the trailhead…there isn't one. But, at a bend in the road, we found an unmarked pullout area which, per the map, had to be the start of the trail. Sure enough, we found a rutted, motorcycle-massacred pathway heading straight up a steep slope. We loaded up and moved out.
The normal excitement and enthusiasm that one typically feels at the beginning of such a trip lasted all of about two minutes for us this time. The "trail" headed straight up, endlessly, through thick, slippery dust piles churned up by the illegal motorcycle use. We were drenched in sweat in minutes. Still, we figured that in about 2-3 hours at most, we'd be relaxing by the waters of Cooney Lake; a very wrong assumption. This "trail" went unendingly, steeply, painfully uphill, forever it seemed. Further, where the motorcycles had gone turned out to not be the "ridge trail", and after following it, we soon found ourselves totally turned around. A compass check showed we were going the wrong direction. After climbing cross country through the forest, we finally hit a trail…the same one we'd been on! We backtracked down the trail until we found an obscure offshoot we'd missed earlier that was marked as the Foggy Dew Ridge trail.
Again, our enthusiasm was shortlived as, once again, we began heading relentlessly and steeply uphill. Further, the "trail" soon disappeared until there was really no trail at all. We were left to using careful map and compass work, and to trying to follow the lone hoofprints of a horseman who had preceded us to try to find our way across the ridge. After six tough hours of this, and long after we'd run out of water, darkness was beginning to fall and we were still far from reaching the end of the ridge trail. We needed water badly, but there had been none anywhere on the ridgeline and the situation was beginning to get critical. Luckily, we came into a meadow and, after searching further downslope, were able to find a small spring seeping into a grass covered gully. Digging a cup-sized hole in the gravel allowed us enough area to collect and filter the water we so badly needed at that point.
We found a small flat area in a grove of trees just large enough for the tent to fit into. After a welcome dinner, we collapsed into our sleeping bags, filthy and exhausted, and promising to provide a word to the wise: Don't even try this route! The Foggy Dew Ridge trail is not a trail at all; it is a tough cross country journey that is far longer than the 4.5 miles shown on the map. You must know how to read a map and compass well. As experienced hikers, we wouldn't recommend this "trail" to anyone. Instead, start a trip along the Chelan Summit trail at either the Summer Blossom trailhead or via the Foggy Dew Creek trail. Despite our warning, if you do take the Ridge trail, be prepared for a very tough challenge.
Our first day left us drained, but we woke, refreshed, to a gorgeous, sunny second day. We began by hiking another two miles or so of the ridge trail before thankfully reaching the junction with Trail 429 that led to Cooney Lake in another mile. Surrounded by larch trees at 7200', Cooney Lake is a scenic jewel. The adjoining meadows were filled with wildflowers and flowing streams. We enjoyed a short break, resting up before the next challenge; climbing up and over the 8000' ridge crossing to the west of the lake. After a steep (but short this time) climb, we reached the pass and the junction with the Sunrise Lake trail and trail 1259D, the "Angels Staircase", which descends down to the Chelan Summit Trail on the west side of the Sawtooths.
It was a perfect lunch spot, and we enjoyed the broad views that ranged from the snowcapped Cascade Peaks in the west to the desert plains of eastern Washington. We could look to the north and see the rugged country we would be traveling through, and in particular, the dramatic profile of 8690' Star Peak which dominates the landscape. Unfortunately, our enjoyment was marred by the sound of whining motorcycles roaring through the high mountain meadows below us on the Summit Trail, which is open to motorized travel up to the Wilderness boundary. For this hiker, ripping tires and roaring engines on trails through 7000' high, flower-filled meadows seemed unacceptably out of character for the natural surroundings.
We descended down to the Summit trail (#1259) and began our northward journey along its route. After easy roaming for 2.2 miles through lush alpine meadows, we reached the junction with Trail 1255 (Boiling Lake/Horsehead Pass) and decided to utilize one of the "plush" camps located here, complete with picnic table and large fire grate. The USFS also has a cabin at the junction which is regularly manned by rangers during the summer months. Leaving wine to cool in the stream, we took a sidetrip up to Boiling Lake, a must see for anyone traveling this route.
While there, we were surprised to bump into fellow Issaquah Alps Trails Club officer, Marilyn Moon, who was on a nine-day trip with her sister, and was camped at the lake. After a brief chat, Keith and I headed back to our camp for much anticipated wine and crackers, a good dinner, Jiffy Pop, and a beautiful night sleeping out under the stars. Despite the regular reports of horrendous bug problems everywhere this summer, we had little problems with bugs the entire trip (other than a few yellow jacket attacks).
Up for our third day, we climbed to 6800' Chipmunk Pass in about 1.5 miles, with great views of Cub Lake enroute. Dropping our packs, we took a side trip westward along the ridge for a mile to a saddle which provided direct views to the mountains of Glacier Peak Wilderness Heading down from the pass, we soon entered into the forested basin of Prince Creek. Much of the next six miles was through forestlands, before we finally broke out into scattered forest and meadows at Muleshoe Camp, located at the junction with the Surprise Lake trail (# 1249).
We had planned to camp here, but one tent was already at the site, and no water seemed available nearby. Thus, we opted to continue on, up and over the shoulder of Star Peak at the 7400' crossing. (known as Robertson Pass). Impressive views from this pass allowed us to look back southwards to see the route we had traveled, as well as northward to the grassy slopes of 8082' Gray Peak. We had wanted to do a long scramble to the top of Star Peak, but instead decided to take another sidetrip westward along the ridgeline to the saddle at the base of Baldy Peak, requiring a crossing of a large boulder field and even some snow patches. The views were awesome in all directions as we let our feet dry out under a warm sun.
We then descended from the pass down into the flower filled meadows of Fish Creek basin, before turning eastward on Trail 411 towards Fish Creek Pass. The meadows in this basin offer many wonderful campsites with broad views, but we found the best spot adjacent to Star Lake. This little turquoise lake lies in a spectacular setting, surrounded by larch trees and meadows, and with the sheer rock walls of Star Peak rising dramatically up behind it to the north. After setting up our camp, Keith and I each took different side trips, with me heading for Fish Creek Pass and the views down to our campsite and to the west. Exploring at the scenic pass, I vowed that I would be back to climb 8392' Courtney Peak in the morning. That evening, our sleep was disturbed when we were awakened by a frantic coyote running around in the meadows below whose yipping and howling echoed loudly off of the rock walls behind us.
The next morning, we arose to gloomy skies, but climbed up to Fish Creek Pass for breakfast, followed by the quick scramble up Courtney Peak that I had promised. If you are ever in this area, climbing either Courtney or Star Peak is a must; the top of the world views are great. By the time we had packed up camp and started back down through the meadows to the Summit Trail, a light drizzle had started. It turned to steady rain by lunchtime, causing us to cancel our planned sidetrip to Tuckaway Lake and Oval Pass.
We continued on, wanting to get a few more miles in that day, but by the time we'd passed the junction with the North Fork Fish Creek Trail (#1248A), the skies began to open up. We were fortunate that a large campsite was located off trail in the forest and we quickly set up tarps to stand under to wait out the rain. The rain had other plans however, and for the next four hours it poured heavily on us. In a minor lull, we quickly got the tent set up, but even with drainage ditches dug, water still began to seep in. The cold rain stopped long enough for us to fix up some hot soup and a Mexican enchilada dinner, and then we jumped back into the tent hoping for clear skies in the morning.
Sure enough, the one day storm was long gone when we woke up, and we quickly packed and got moving in order to warm up our cold bodies. After a pleasant 2.5 mile stroll, passing Deephole Spring enroute, reached the ridgecrest border between the Wilderness area and the Lake Chelan National Recreation Boundary. On the open ridge, we layed out all of our wet gear in the warm sunshine while again taking a short sidetrip to the western end of the ridge. This too is a must see for anyone following this route. The ridge ends with a sharp dropoff that looks straight down onto Lake Chelan and Stehekin. More impressive were the spectacular peaks and rugged valleys to the west that drop steeply to the lakeshore. To the north, we could see our destination point at Lake Juanita, as well as the North Cascades peaks, and to the south, a nice view of Triplet Lakes.
After this break, we dropped down into meadows and skirted the ridgeline on a level contour all the way to Lake Juanita; moving at a very enjoyable and leisurely pace to soak in the scenery. Lake Juanita sits in a shallow bowl with numerous campsites surrounding it. We chose a site on the ridge directly south of the lake which offered cliff edge views to the south and west. But, better views were to be had, so with day packs, we headed up from the lake to Purple Pass, with its magnificent views down to Lake Chelan and to the west, and then up to 7350' Boulder Butte, site of a former lookout.
Again, these two spots are must-sees for any visitor. Boulder Butte offers unobstructed and dramatic views in all directions, and is an ideal spot to relax after days of hiking on the trail. We spent two hours here, simply enjoying the scenery, the quiet, and the beauty of it all. On the way down, we detoured over to the meadows just above Lake Juanita on its northwest side, where a spring provided fresh flowing water; a better option than utilizing the stagnant late-summer lake water. With a roaring fire, good dinner, and a perfect sunset, we ended our final night of the trip.
The sixth and final day required a 9.3 mile hike down the War Creek Trail. The trail was in excellent condition, although brushy in a few spots. One of the 1994 fires had burned through a couple areas, but otherwise, we enjoyed the old growth forest walk. Nearing the end, we met a USFS Wilderness ranger who was eager to ensure we knew about no trace camping, trailhead passes, and other informational items, as well as to hear about our trip and any potential problems we encountered. He obviously loved his work, and it was a pleasure to meet someone who seemed to care so much about "our" Wilderness.
When we reached the car, Keith and I were both surprised at our attitudes. After every other trip, we'd been anxious to get back to real food, hot water, a cold beer, and other luxuries. But this time, for some reason we would have been just as comfortable staying out for another week. Too bad Keith had a plane to Iowa to catch. In any case, we'll probably be back to this area for another visit. The area we'd traveled through was scenic and rugged, and the trails and country to the north of Boulder Butte look very inviting and offer lots of loop possibilities. If you've never been to this area of the state, it's well worth the effort; it offers unique scenery different from the westside mountains we've traveled through. We highly recommend this trip and this area for fellow backpackers, however….take our advice and avoid the Foggy Dew Ridge trail!
Note: This is backcountry wilderness travel. You are responsible for informing yourself of the hazards and taking the necessary precautions.
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