Trip report by: Denis Du Bois
"I would definitely recommend this trip to a friend."
The Carbon River Road washes out easier than mustard on a yellow tie. Trailhead access is closed frequently enough to make hiking this trail seem like a rare opportunity. The hike is an unusual one, with a large suspension bridge and a close-up view of the glacier’s snout. It’s also an easy day hike requiring no permits.
Photos: [Top] Suspension bridge carries Wonderland Trail hikers across the Carbon River; [Bottom] Mt. Rainier glows above the Carbon Glacier in the sunshine. The shiny shape in the foreground is the melting ice at the snout of the glacier.
Starting at a small parking lot at the end of the Ipsut Creek campground, the Carbon Glacier trail scarcely climbs at all in its first two miles. It mostly follows the bank of the Carbon River, offering frequent views of the broad, barren river bed, and occasional views of the gray river itself.
At two miles, the lower crossing leads to Alice Falls. From there, you could follow a parallel trail upstream along the opposite river bank, joining the main trail in another mile. Unfortunately, this bridge washes out almost every spring. I followed the side trail in June, in hopes of seeing the washed-out bridge. The river changes course, dividing and rejoining itself. I crossed four side streams to get to the edge of the river's main bed. I still could not even see the river, more than a hundred yards away, and more challenging crossings lay ahead. I returned to the main trail.
At three miles, by either trail, you come to an impressive suspension bridge, a long strand of steel cables and wood planks. It’s probably best not to attempt this crossing immediately after breakfast. As soon as I stepped out on the planks, the bridge began to sway like an angry serpent. There was no calming this beast as I proceeded, firmly gripping the handrail cables. Stepping directly in the middle of the walkway produces the least sway.
When I got to the center, I forgot how unsteady the bridge was. It’s beautifully situated, with a view up the river to the glacier’s snout. Even a little corner of Mt. Rainier is visible. I snapped pictures and listened to the roar of the river far below, until another early-bird hiker rattled the cables to get my attention. The bridge can support more than one person at a time, but it's not wide enough for two people to pass.
At four miles, this section of the Wonderland Trail emerges from forest, at eye level with the surface of the Carbon Glacier. There are many places to sit and enjoy the view, none of which are shady. The headwaters of the Carbon River are inside an ice cave, flowing at full size and speed, milky with glacial silt. Boulders tumble into the river’s bed, after having spent centuries traveling down the mountain on the glacier’s back. Beyond, Mt. Rainier’s summit is clearly visible.
By noon, throngs of day hikers had assembled along the trail to watch the show. An occasional through-hiker slipped quietly past the crowd.
Getting there: Fill up with gas in Buckley, then take 162 to 165, through Wilkeson, to the Carbon River entrance of Mt. Rainier National Park. Pay the $10 per vehicle entrance fee at the ranger station and continue on the pot-holed dirt road to Ipsut Creek campground. Park at the end of the road. Dogs are not allowed in the park.
Note: This is backcountry wilderness travel. Any trail can become very dangerous in winter conditions. You are responsible for informing yourself of the hazards and taking the necessary precautions. Please read Terms of Use.