Trip report by Dan Fye
DAY 1. We left the house early, departing Seattle at 6:20 AM aboard the ferry to Bainbridge and headed to highway US 101. A brief stop in Port Angles for breakfast. Soon we zigzagged past Lake Crescent, drive to the La Push Road turn off [about 1 Mi. north of Forks], stop at the Mora Ranger Station for a permit and conditions update, then on to Rialto Beach parking lot, arriving about 11:20. [The parking lot is about 1/2 the original size from when storm surges in 1996 swept through, burying the half the parking lot with rocks. The storm surges caused me to abort a planed hike. Spruce trees in the picnic area are dying from too much salt watering.]
Photo: Dan and Shelly at the trailhead. Permits and reservations are required for beach camping.
11:45 AM: Car cloths are stashed, car locked, boots tied, packs shouldered, we at last starting to hike. The sun shines, about 58 degrees, many day and weekend beach lovers are enjoying a perfect day. In about 30 minutes we cross Ellen Creek using garbage bags over our boots brought for just this purpose. [Ellen Creek can be crossed on logs above the tide line. This path will usually be over some deep pools. On one trip our friend Mike leaned over, dumping his tent poles into about 4 feet of water, causing a recovery delay. Removal of boots and wading is also common. A young lady on another trip used this technique, tying her boot laces together and winding up for a mighty heave. The boots splashing into the creek.]
12:45 PM: We are at Hole-in-the-Wall, gateway to the wild north coast. The tide is way out and we pass through and proceeded to Johnson Creek. [The campsites no longer exists, having washed away, the creek is a mere trickle behind the one large remaining rock. It is hard to believe that 25 years ago we camped about 2 dozen kids here.] 12:58 PM, low tide, we start around the first rock point. With the tide at 0.7 feet, the kelpie shelf is exposed and we can avoid the blockier rocks. The kelp pods (sea sac) are slippery, and eel grass hides water pools, the water is so clear that depth cannot be estimated. We walk on only the exposed rock, causing as much sideways progress as progress in the way we intend to go. In 1/2 mile we pass the small point that can stop hikers from returning to cars at high tide. We head for the next point that has an unnamed island offshore. A quarter mile causeway exposes a dry route to the island. [It is very tempting to try cutting across the cove on the shelf, don’t, we know better finding out the hard way.]
Photo: Hole-In-The-Wall, passable at low tide.
A day hiker passes, planning to turn around at the Chilean Memorial. We plunge on and reach the point about 2:15 PM. Stopped for lunch; we watched people on the island, the incoming tide was will soon cover their escape path. Do they know? On the move again, starting into the Chilean Memorial cove, saw two very rotting dead seals. Now we move onto the barrier rock piles, the first is relatively easy, passing large rocks on the cobbles that will soon be flooded. The day hiker seen earlier is now returning, having given up trying to cross the last boulders. His sneakers are just not up to the task. He will be the last person we see for some time. We continue with the rocks growing in size and difficulty. Soon we begin the final rock pile for the day, the rocks are huge, this stretch is very slow, with a lot of climbing up, down, around, and over.( At 3:30 we are finally on the sand beach and arrive at the Chilean Memorial at 3:40 PM.
We find the campsite empty, this is lucky. Soon the tent is pitched, water pumped into the water bag from a small seep just to the north, the stove is setup. Our home for the night is complete. I name the prominent sea stack directly offshore from our tent "cat rock". I spot humming birds dining on salmon berry flower, reddish in color they were probably Rufous Hummingbirds. They instantly leave. [Chilean Memorial is a rude campsite, at most 5 two man tents can be fitted into two clear spots, forget a portable hotel. The Memorial Stone commemorates the lives lost when a Chilean freighter grounded in 1923. A person coming here must be able to recognize and avoid stinging Great Hedge Nettle (Stachys cooleyae), it grows in abundance. The park crews have cut a short trail up the bank and have built a wonderful pit toilet having a grand view.]
Dan, after his nap, whips up our dinner of macaroni and cheese with diced ham. Coffee and apple sauce complete our meal (we bring real coffee from Folgers bags, Starbucks not having a comparable product). Dishes are washed and the camp secure by 7:00, we have time to play. Dan chooses to play check the tide table. The high tide is predicted at 7:33 PM. Dan carefully shoves a stick into the sand at the highest point a wave reaches, soon very few waves overwhelm the stick. He now uses a second stick marker, advancing up the beach and noting the time. Slowly Dan’s sticks leapfrog up the beach, will the next wave be higher? Eventually he determines the tide is receding. The highest stick marker recorded 7:32 PM. [The tide table was based on Aberdeen Washington (NOAA) gaging station and corrected for La Push, Quillayute River. I was amazed with the accuracy. The time will depend on location, sea swell and other unpredictable causes (El Nino?). Corrections require addition or subtraction of minutes from the closest NOAA data station. The Tatoosh Island , Cape Flattery table corrected to Aberdeen had the same tide at 7:50 PM. The evening high tide was 6.3 feet, leaving lots of exposed sand. A week latter will bring 9.1 feet tides, this will have water lapping at the bank’s edge.] The sun sets at 8:15, we crawl into sleeping bags saying good night at 8:45 PM. We have ended a wonderful day.
Photo: Dan checks the tide tables in camp at Chilean Memorial.
Day 2: Chilean Memorial to Norwegian Creek
Day 3: Norwegian Creek to Sand Point Camp
Day 4: Sand Point to Cape Alava
Day 5: Cape Alava to Ozette Lake
Getting there: This beach hike begins at Rialto Beach near Forks, WA.
This report is for one leg of a multi-day trip.
Note: This is backcountry wilderness travel. Any trail can become very dangerous in winter conditions. You are responsible for informing yourself of the hazards and taking the necessary precautions. Please read Terms of Use.