Leslie and I headed for northern California's Redwood National Park, near Crescent City, for a week of Redwoods-style camping. Often referred to as a single park, this area just south of the Oregon border is a collection of state park and national park lands. The coastal redwoods offer an uncrowded experience for visitors willing to do some walking.
Stop first at the NPS office in Crescent City, 1111 2nd St., for maps and a chat with the ranger (707-464-6101) to determine where to find the experience you want. Ironically, the NPS land east of Orick is the least attractive for hikers, acre for acre, because much of it was clearcut before becoming a park. If you want to hike it, the best way is to go to the NPS office very early and ask for the combination to the gate on the east side. Hike through, following the valley, and have a friend pick you up at the other end.
Photo: Elk, early morning, Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park. Dark wall in background is the edge of the Redwood forest.
The hike of hikes in this area is the Coastal Trail, stretching about 30 miles from Endert's Beach to Prairie Creek. There are shorter backpacks and several excellent day hikes among the old logging roads in the state parks of Jedediah Smith, Del Norte, and Prairie Creek. Primitive campgrounds are Nickel Creek, Flint Ridge, DeMartin and Butler Creek.
Stats: Day hikes to three-day backpacks throughout the park. Nominal elevation gains. Expect everything to be crowded in summer, including the campgrounds, so make advance reservations through Mistix, 800-444-7275. Reference: I used Northern California Handbook by Kim Weir, Moon Publications, $19.95 paperback. Guides for sale at the NPS office. Get the Trails Illustrated map, too. Getting there: Drive south on I-5 to Grants Pass and turn west on US Highway 199 to Crescent City. Or drive south on 101 from Brookings.