In 1997, the NPS was ordered to start charging fees to spread the cost of managing parks among those who use them. Fees make sense, because the cost of just protecting wilderness would be considerably less without maintaining trails, cleaning restrooms, paving roads, buying those handsome uniforms, and so on. Those of us who use these areas derive a greater benefit from, and place a larger burden on, park resources than the already-overtaxed general public.
Here are the Fee Facts as I understand them today:
So, you can expect a weekend visit for two, with a night in a campground and an overnight backpack, to run you about $40. That's if you can get into the backcountry at all. Note that the Mowich Lake entrance, once free of entrance fees, is now charging the standard $10, too.
Reservations are required for backpacking from June 1 through September 30. Watch out--they don't go out of their way to make this easy or convenient. Backpackers must obtain Wilderness permits and pay permit fees at the following sites: Longmire and White River Wilderness Information Centers, Wilkeson Ranger Station (the red caboose), and the Paradise Ranger Station--click the button at left for a list of phone numbers to call. Be prepared to arrive at the park a day early to arrange permits, and don't set your heart on a particular route.